Sean Collins – Big Waves Of the North Pacific

Sean Collins – Big Wave Science

Bathemtry of the ocean (or the contour of the ocean) floor focus and magnify huge amounts of wave energy to create the monster surfable waves.  Energy from wind transfers into the water.  Over time and distance this transfer can develop into a significant amount of energy deep into ocean floor.  As the energy goes deeper, the swell height gains, increasing the time between swells, or swell periods.  Swell periods with a 10 second interval have energy depth of 256 feet.  Swell periods with a 20 second interval have energy depth of 1024 feet.The swell energy eventually pushes upward when the swell reaches shallow water to become a much larger wave.  As the waves move in, the waves will refract towards shallow water, magnifying their effect. The end result is a super magnifier on the wave, increasing its size by a multiple. Cortes Bank is believed have the potential to produce the largest surfable wave.

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The Pacific Big Wave Spots:
(the expected largest rideable wave)
Waimea Bay   (55 feet on the face)
Outer Log Cabin   (90 feet on the face)
Jaws – Pe’ahi   (95 feet on the face)
Mavericks    (85 feet on the face)
Todos Santos    (85 feet on the face)
Cortes Bank   (150 feet on the face with good shape all though it is estimated that wave could reach 1000 feet high)

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Featured Surfers:Brad Gerlach
Mike “Snips” Parson
Laird Hamilton
Kelly Slater
Garrett McNamara
Ross Clarke-Jones
Peter Mel
Rusty L0ng
Shane Desmond
Anthony Tashnick
Cheyne Horan
Layne Beachley
Makua Rothman
Ken Collins
Ken Bradshaw
Pancho Sullivan
Noah Johnson
Darryly Virostko
Josh Loya
Rob Machado
Taylor Knox
Derrick Doerner
Shawn Barron
Grant Washburn
Brock Little
Carlos Burle
Dave Kalama
Adam Replogle
Shane Dorian

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